Thursday, December 12, 2013
Best Egg Salad
This morning one of my like-minded friend went on about how easy it is to make your own mayonnaise for an egg mayo sandwich. Said sandwich was so tempting he ate his packed lunch way before brunch hour. Now I'm reminded of this egg salad made quite a while ago by chance. Reading one of Heidi Swanson's many tried and tested recipes and voila, how refreshing it was to find a gem that uses yogurt!
Those of you who
Till this.
As Heidi put it, the key is not to kill the eggs. Powdery yolks will not work for this application, so keep give sunny center some love and guarded restrain. Set yet still soft. I've learned to enjoy this level of doneness with anything calling for boiled eggs - scattered over fresh greens and lightly dressed with honey mustard, with nasi lemak, or the ever crucial soy sauce marinated syoyu tamago to go with a bowl of hot ramen soup.
The best thing about this discovery - the freedom to experiment with your favorite flavors. Celery is milder than scallions. If you have some shallots lying around, they work too - raw if you're like me, fried will up the umami factor and play down the sharpness. A bit of whole grain mustard, as an ode to the ditched mayo. A dash of smoked paprika for some heat but I bet sumac will be great too. Your creativity being the only limit, an egg salad will never be soggy and boring again!
Best Egg Salad
Recipe modified from this 101 Cookbook's Egg Salad Sandwich.
Yield: If it's up to me, not enough egg salad. This fills about 4 sandwiches.
- 6 large eggs, room temperature
- 1-2 tablespoons full fat/Greek yogurt
- Salt and pepper
- 2 stalks scallions, thinly slices
- 1/2 bunch chives, chopped
- 1/2 teaspoon whole grain mustard
- 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
Place the eggs in a pot and cover with cold water by a 1/2-inch or so. Bring to a gentle boil. Now turn off the heat, cover, and let sit for about 6-7 minutes. Immediately place the eggs into a big bowl of ice water for about 3-4 minutes. Crack and peel each egg, place in a medium mixing bowl.
Add 1 tablespoon of the yogurt, a few generous pinches of salt and pepper, and mash with a fork. Mix just enough to break down some of the eggs, leaving some bigger pieces for texture. The soft yolks will add to the moisture, add more yogurt only if necessary.
Stir in the scallions, chives, mustard and paprika. Taste, and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Spread over toasted sourdough or buttery croissant for complete satisfaction.
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Friday, December 06, 2013
Blood Orange Chiffon Cake
Taking things slow.
Recently this seems to require more effort and thought than what I have in my reserve. The constant gaze at the clock, rushed deadlines at work, lack of quality sleep, downing lunch in front of the computer. I had to check myself when eating - take your time, savor the taste, feel the fullness. When reading, try not to skim through. When walking, avoid the hordes of phone-wielding zombies. In a conversation, pause to listen. When doing nothing else, take a deep breath.
Will we realize when everything is clocked with a countdown results will suffer? The rushed sandwich with just one sad piece of pastrami. The burnt milk around the steam wand. Unhappy customers, angry clients, mistakes to correct, tasks to redo, botched grand plans. Worst of all, when it all ends, we become too tired to care. It's no longer about details, standards, consistency. Just get it out there, over and done with, let's move on before losing out.
Perhaps this is why I always return to baking.
It can't be rushed. It demands focus, mindfulness and a little bit of discipline. Read the recipe once. Check the quantity twice. Sift the flour thrice - our grandmothers meant business. The butter creams for four minutes, and it will be another five after the eggs. The cake bakes for an hour, if not 10 minutes more. Keep peeking into the oven, it will not rise faster. Two hours to cool down, way after you're done with the dishes and finish a cup of coffee. Take it or leave it.
Understand the process, appreciate the art and insist on quality. Apply yourself.
Blood Orange Chiffon Cake
Recipe modified from this Pandan Chiffon Cake.
Yield: One 25cm 5-inches tall cake.
- 180 grams cake/top flour
- ¼ tablespoon baking of soda
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- 180 grams castor sugar, halved
- 160 milliliters blood orange juice
- grated zest of 2 blood oranges
- 8 eggs, separated
- 6 tablespoon corn oil
Pre-heat oven to 170°C and position a wire rack at the lower third rack. Prepare a clean 25 cm chiffon cake tin, do not grease.
Sift the flour and baking soda into a small bowl, add in the salt. In a separate large mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the corn oil to form an emulsion. Add the blood orange juice and orange zest. Mix well before adding half (90 grams) of the sugar and whisk till sugar has melted. Pour the mixture into the dry ingredients and whisk well into a smooth batter, there should be no lumps. Set aside.
On medium-high speed of a stand or hand held mixer, whisk the egg whites. Start adding the remaining sugar once the egg whites begin to foam, gradually in 3 additions. Beat till the meringue is smooth and glossy, with stiff peaks. Be careful not to over-beat the egg whites.
Immediately stir in approximately 1/3 of the meringue into the flour batter. With a flexible rubber or silicon spatula, fold in the meringue gently and mix well. Once a roughly homogeneous mixture is achieved, add the rest of the meringue and repeat the gentle, light-handed folding process till the cake batter is well combined. Scoop from the bottom of the bowl to ensure no meringue or flour batter is left unmixed. Do not beat or overwork the batter as this will knock out the air you've put into the meringue.
Pour the cake mixture into the cake tin. Using your spatula, dip it into the batter right to the bottom and make circles around the tin twice. This is to remove any large air bubbles possibly trapped while pouring in the cake batter. Bake at 170°C for 10 minutes. Lower the temperature to 160°C and bake for another 45 to 50 minutes or until cake is done. The cake tester should come out clean. Don't fret if the top of your cake cracks a little, this is normal.
Remove the cake from the oven and immediately overturn it to cool completely, up to 2 hours. I like to do this over an upturned funnel as the legs of the chiffon cake tin are not long enough to avoid the top of the cake touching its resting surface - the cake should rise to the same level or slightly higher than the center tube. You can also use a narrow necked bottle but ensure that it's stable enough to support the weight of the cake. Release the cake by running a sharp, thin knife along the sides of the cake tin and subsequently the bottom of the tube. The cake is meant to be served upside down as it is heavier on the top.
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Julia Child (Mastering the Art of French Cooking)
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